Installing garden lighting sometimes seems like a big job, but with the right preliminary choices, it becomes a lot more manageable. The most important question we get asked the most is: are you going for 12V garden lighting or 230V (220–240V) garden lighting?
In this article, we explain the difference in plain language, with clear pros and cons. This way, you'll know exactly what suits your garden — whether you want to place a few lights along a path or illuminate an entire garden.
Want to browse the available types right away? On our garden lighting collection page you will find all categories (wall lights, standing lights, spots, spike spots, string lights, solar, and more) neatly organized together.
Table of contents
What does 12V garden lighting mean?
12V garden lighting operates on low voltage. This means you do not connect the lights directly to the mains power supply. Instead, you first use a transformer that converts the 230V from the wall outlet into 12V. You then install your garden lighting starting from that transformer. This is precisely why 12V is so popular among DIY enthusiasts: you work in the garden with a lower voltage, which in practice is often perceived as more pleasant and safer.
12V systems are also often very convenient if you want to expand your garden lighting step by step. Many gardens evolve alongside the wishes of their owners: first lighting along the path, later a few extra spotlights near plants, or an accent on the fence. With 12V, such an expansion is usually easy to achieve because the system is often modular in design.
What we also see a lot in practice: 12V is frequently chosen for ambient lighting and accent lighting. Think of spike spots, garden spotlights near borders, or a subtle line of light along a walkway. Of course, it can also be functional, but 12V is often seen in "enhancing the beauty" of the garden, featuring flexible placement and gentle light points.
Discover our 12 Volt Garden Lighting
What is 230V Garden Lighting?
230V garden lighting connects directly to mains power (220–240V).So you don't need a transformer. That makes the system conceptually simple: you have a power point outside and connect the fixtures to it. In practice, however, this means you must be extra careful with the installation and especially the connections, as everything outdoors must be connected in a watertight and durable manner.
230V garden lighting is often chosen for fixed light points. Think of wall lights on the facade, lighting near the driveway or under a canopy, or fixed fixtures along a fence. If you already have a (good) 230V connection point outside and you know exactly where the lights should go, this can be a very practical choice.
An important specialist point: with 230V, the quality of the connection is at least as important as the lamp itself. Many outdoor malfunctions are not caused by the fixtures, but by moisture in a connection, an incorrect connector, or a cable that has not been neatly finished.That is why with a neat 230V installation you will almost always see attention given to waterproof connectors/junction boxes and a solid cable route.
12V vs 230V garden lighting
The difference between 12V and 230V is therefore not "which is better", but mainly: which fits your situation better. In practice, it often comes down to four points: safety/peace of mind, installation method, expandability, and the type of lighting you want to install.
12V is often perceived as safer because it is low voltage. That is great when you are installing the garden lighting yourself, or when children and pets are running around the garden. 230V is of course also safe, but generally requires a bit more precision during installation and connection.
In terms of installation, you will find that 12V starts with a transformer and can then often be nicely "plug-and-play" within the system.At 230V, installation is direct, but the success of the system largely depends on how neatly the connections are made and how well everything is protected against moisture.
Expandability is also a factor. Many people find 12V convenient because it is relatively easy to add an extra light or relocate a spotlight later on. 230V is often a bit more "permanent": ideal if you have a fixed layout and do not want to keep changing your light points.
Finally, it is good to know that there is no automatic difference in quality between 12V and 230V. Quality is primarily found in the fixture (material, sealing, IP rating), the light source/LED module, and above all in the lighting plan: where do you place which light, with what beam angle, light color, and intensity?
In short
Regardless of your choice, there is one piece of advice that almost always applies: pay extra attention to the basics.Choose fixtures with the correct IP rating for the location, work with reliable connection materials, and make your connections truly waterproof. That is precisely what determines whether your garden lighting will still work without issues after a single winter.
Anyone who wants to go a step further can also consider control options: would you like automatic switching via schedules, sunset, or sensors? This is possible with both 12V and 230V systems (depending on how you set up your system), and can provide a lot of convenience and efficiency.
Hopefully, the difference between 12V and 230V garden lighting is now a lot clearer. The best choice mainly depends on your garden, your plans, and how flexible you want the installation to be.Want to dive deeper? We have even more blogs to help you choose and install the right garden lighting, covering topics such as IP ratings, light color (Kelvin), light output (lumens), placement per application (path/patio/driveway), and smart garden lighting.
Read our other blogs about garden lighting and get inspired for your garden!
